“Every man has his White South.”

- Ernest Shackleton

[Cape Horn, Drake Passage  60 degrees S/60 degrees W]

The Antarctic
Peninsula is home to the continent’s greatest wildlife diversity within some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. However, one mammal not found in Antarctica associated with Polar Regions is the Polar Bear. But that’s not to say this noble furry beast of the Arctic is not celebrated down south.

Antarctic surface water, at least the top layer, is the water which most directly affects Antarctic plants and animals. Ice and cold air from the continent constantly chill the layer. In winter it remains below 30 degrees F, but come spring it may warm up to 32 degrees near its northern boundary at the convergence.

Of course, most Ice Axe expedition team members weren’t thinking such things as they prepared for the ship’s Polar Bear Plunge  they were just hoping they didn’t have a heart attack. Beforehand, Laurie, our Quark Expedition director, had mentioned that a person had maybe five minutes to survive once in the water. He didn’t have to worry. The 40 or so who braved the refrigerated waters broached out of the sea like Moby Dick after strapping Ahab on its back. It was like Old Faithful sprewing human Popsicle’s back to land. Let’s hear it for Mica, Meaghan, Adrian, Maria and Belgium beauty Excel hitting the water in their bikinis (Thank you, too, Lord). Then there was Keoki and Tucker doing flips off the upper rail and Tal Fletcher doing a back flip. Yes, diving into the Antarctic is extreme if not a bit of crazy. Although attempting defy-defying acts such as leaping into the Southern Ocean for most sane folks would be tantamount to digesting a bowling bowl; to Ice Axe athletes who chase adventure the way a dog chases tires, called and crazy, willing to be hit, extremism is kind of like having groovy sex and nosebleeds at the same time.

By late afternoon, the Clipper Adventurer withdraws with effort from the coast, breaking her way offshore through the Aitcho Channel in search of open water towards the north.

Behind us, ice mesas, white plains without end stretch south and east watch us go. Our small ship becomes a mere blot on the immaculate white napkin of the Antarctic. Snow petrels, Snowy sheathbills and Kelp gull appear and disappear in the golden haze of an evening twilight. On sun-filled wings, like doves of peace, they stir indistinct feelings of faint emotion to those on deck staring back at the disappearing shorelines and tabular icebergs.

It was Shackleton, referring to man¹s romantic dream of great adventure, who wrote, “The longing for ice, the sadness of departure, as if after all we cannot bear to leave this bleak waste of ice, glaciers, cold and toil.”

Aboard the Clipper Adventurer, uncomfortably well-fed, cosseted by hot showers and comfy beds, with Zodiac service and skilled guides ensuring our safety, the Antarctic adventure could appear more than a bit spurious and removed from the great explorer’s words.

Don’t fool yourself. None on board would have missed this voyage for the world. Ice Axe Expeditions Ski Cruise 2009 was a groundbreaking success. So what? Why should those, living thousands of miles away and into their own archetypes of extremity, want to know about any of this? What can people learn from a cross section of mountain folks running around unclaimed icefields in their long underwear?

Down deep, this expedition was really about faith; a capacity lost more and more from our lives.

It is preached that Jesus was a healer and performed miracles. I believe Jesus was a man, and if he could do what he did, then so can all of us. He just had more faith than most. Each of us, however, has a certain amount of faith. And I believe that when enough people give themselves wholly to something, they can bring about miraculous changes. This Ice Axe expedition certainly brought about a miracle in weather, logistics, accomplishment, but most of all learning that Antarctica is a precious place to cherish.

“You can always do more than you think you can. You don¹t know until you take on the challenge,” explained Kevin Quinn to me one windy day high atop an end of the world snowfield.

The morning of the Nov. 18th, the luster of the calm return sea voyage wore off and we became horribly aware of tying up to the pier in Ushuaia. The Drake Passage swells had carried us gently back to civilization.

The next day on land, still in Ushuaia, around seven in the morning, I looked from my hotel room out upon the harbor at the Clipper Explorer. The sun rose with dispatch, as it does at the end of the world. The day was warm, but with a wet, cool breeze. Jagged boulders, piled by sea chop, rested against a distant headland. To the west, across the windswept Beagle Channel, stood cloud-diadem peaks and the Chilean frontier. I thought of Antarctica’s bending winds, the clean, pure spring of icy water and deserted late night sunsets where the sky changes from vermilion to yellow to indigo before burning off into the roof of the world.

Inside our hotel, Dick Banfield and Dave Marchi were gearing up to climb and ski down Cerro Martial above the nearby Aerosilla ski resort before heading to the airport later in the day.

You’d think after 12 days of risky endeavors, the cold and assorted fleeting infirmities that more climbing and skiing towards unforgiving peaks would be the last thing Ice Axe participants would want. Or, maybe, the thing they want most.

THE ICE AXE S.A.T

Q: True or false? If eaten raw, Arctic shark meat makes one feel very drunk, so much so that Eskimos call anyone who is drunk ”Shark-sick.”

A:True.

THE ICE AXE PROFILE

Even Sharks Need Love
5 Questions with Allan Marshall

Ice Ace marine biologist Allan Marshall, 42, might be the biggest fish out of water on the Antarctic ski cruise. The Brisbane, Australian born scientist and Florida Aquarium staff member, doesn’t spend his time bagging untamed peaks like most others. Instead, he’s worked as a Zodiac driver, which allows him the time to get on the wet suit and scuba dive into the Antarctic sea to study seals and other water life that thrives in the frigid waters. His work, much which is occupied with transporting species around the world, has taken him to such eclectic lands as Bali, China, Korea, China, Ireland and South Africa. In January, he heads up the Ice Axe Expedition trip to the Amazon.

ON WHY HE LOVES SHARKS

I grew up next to the ocean. I was always fascinated by the underwater world. Part of that fascination has dealt with sharks. I’m constantly impressed. Like any predator at the top of the food chain, I admire their power and grace.

ON THE BITE OF A SHARK

Bull sharks can grow up to 9 feet and weigh up to 400 pounds. They’re responsible for more attacks on humans than any other sharks. Once, I was transporting a Bull shark to a new aquarium. It was supposed to be sedated. I was in its cage next to him. A split second after I’d moved position next to it the shark awoke. Startled, it snapped its jaws just where I’d been. I mention this because I once saw this same shark split a 500-pound grouper in half with a single bite.

ON HIS FAVORITE AUSTRALIAN SAYING

“Don’t come for raw prawn with me.” It means, “I think you’re lying so stop
the line of bull.”

ON UNDERNEATH THE DEEP DARK SEA

I’ve made 1000s of dives around the world and encountered strange stuff.
Once I got caught on a coral reef at night in a small cave. I’d turned my headlamp off. I was smacked in the face by something very large and very hard. I have no idea what it was. I constantly remind myself to be careful and know my limits. Still, I couldn¹t help but swim with the Leopard Seals down here which can be a bit territorial. Don¹t tell my wife.

ON WORKING WITH ICE AXE

My biggest concern is getting the message out to the public about the environments. Ice Axe Expeditions is very good medium to do that. Doug goes up high. I go down low. It’s a good mix.

[Aitcho Islands, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica 62.22' degrees
S/59.47' degrees west]:

On a perfect day the cold atmosphere is clearer than glass and the distant vistas lie within a lively imagination’s immediate grasp. From the bridge looking north to northwest the glaciers fed into Aitcho Bay, turning bluish sea into milky turquoise with meltwater. Above them, inviting snowfields reached up and blended into the sky and lead upward into the sky towards untracked interiors never touched by humans and only roughly mapped by birdlife.

It was our last day of our Antarctic adventure. With an afternoon departure time for our voyage back across the Drake Passage there was still time for a morning foray for final ski turns.

Throughout our journey, Antarctica and its outlying islands had proved to be a mountaineer’s paradise. Tantalized by the loveliest mountains and untouched summits, teams led by accomplished guides had enjoyed cirques of powder and spiderweb lines threading down vertical couloirs and steep snow filled gullies. During the course of our travels, expeditions had summitted peaks and ridges above Cierva Cove on the actual Antarctic continent then climbed mountains that erupted like fangs out of the water at Wenke Island, Livingston Island, Discovery Bay, Greenwich Island, King George Island and finally the Aitcho Archepelago.

Our Ice Axe guides certainly were a notable lot. Eighteen in all, their experience and keen leadership had made the difference ascending numerous ascents and safe returns. There was John Griber, fresh off of Everest for the second time; Squaw Valley’s Glen Poulsen who had recently summitted Denali; Points North Heli-Ski Guides Tal Fletcher, John Mletschnig, Jason Mack, C.J.Warre, Tucker Patten, Ming Poon and Tom Waclo; IFMG guides Ben Mitchell and Jorge Kajoli: Jackson ski patrolmen Dan Starr and Doug Workman; Alaskan heli-ski pilot Christian Cabinella; Dave Marchi from Mount Shasta; Switzerland’s Hans Salzman and, of course, the Director of Guides Points North Heli-Ski founder Kevin Quinn. Throw in overall expedition leader and Polar High Priest Doug Stoup and this was quite a group, pretty much unequaled and all with numerous claims to fame.

Mountaineering in Antarctica isn’t quite the same as bagging Tahoe’s Tallac, Jake’s or Rubicon Peak. Dangers include crevasses, steep ice, long traverses, grippy snow and the proverbial avalanche danger. Pretty much the standard infirmities of the backcountry, but with a twist: This stuff had never been set foot upon there were a lot of variables, no fall zones, sickening serac towers and critical decision making.

Then there was the crippling weight of heavy packs. Most team members carried safety helmets, shovel, probe, transceiver, crampons, ice axe, ice screws, slings, stoppers, belay devices, skins, food and extra clothing. Exposures were such that ropes were typically needed, often with anchored belays. Throw on your back a pair of skis and climbing ropes and it can get a bit weighty. And that’s nothing compared to the photographers like Keoki Flagg or filmmakers like Tom Day who have to lug even more weight with all their camera gear.

But the rewards are beyond tired legs and backs. Amidst sparkling and wondrous surroundings, the scrunch of skis in katabatic breeze, the squeaky whine of planted ice axes and surreal columns of light join to become quite mystical. Close to the ridge you stop and look behind and Antarctica casts its beam and you realize what a spiritual precious milestone all these efforts are for. Fair weather cumulus clouds are the only things in movement otherwise the whole earth has stopped moving. There is not a sign of human existence anywhere except for our tracks in vanguards of snow.

It’s a big high during the last descent from ridge to shore. The moisture of air freezing, floating and sparkling in the sun’s rays chills lips and face. Weaving in and out below ice cliffs and seracs our turns connect onto the lower part of the slope until we finally stop feet from the water. Several chinstrap penguins amble nearby and Mariano, our Zodiac driver, cheery chatter warms us all. There is good spirit in our party. Back on board we prepare for our departure. Outside the wind begins to whirl like ratchets.

TAKING FLIGHT WITH J-MACK:

Ice Axe guideJason Mack has stuck a lot of huge landings in his notable skiing career, but nothing compared to landing on the deck of the aircraft carrier USS Enterprise a year ago this past December. The Points North Heli-Guide took a three-day excursion aboard the famous navy vessel, voyaging from Jacksonville, Florida to its station in Norfolk, Virginia.

“The brother of my wife Mora is a Lieutenant deployed on the ship,” says Jason who traveled with his father in law and Mora’s other brother, another naval officer. “Each year on what they call the ‘Tiger Cruise’ sailors on board are allowed to invite friends and relatives for a three day cruise.”

The USS Enterprise is the world’s first nuclear powered aircraft carrier. At 1,123 feet she is the longest naval vessel in the world. The battleship displaces 93, 500 tons and has a ship’s company of 5,000 men. Propelled by eight nuclear reactors her speed exceeds 30 knots. Nicknamed the “Big E” she can carry 90 aircraft.

While aboard, J-Mack bunked in the officer’s ward and was led on a grand tour that included being on deck for a up close view of jets landing only 60 feet away. He was also treated to a display of the ship’s weaponry

“My brother-in-law had a lot of bridge duty so I got to hang out with him. I even got to steer,” says Jason who was bummed he wasn’t allowed to shoot off a Zuni missile.

THE ICE AXE S.A.T

Q. This tiny Himalayan kingdom puts Donald Duck on its postage stamps, maintains the world’s only wildlife refuge for the abominable snowman, measures its worth in Gross National Happiness and has a king who regularly takes time out from the affairs of state to challenge his subjects to pickup basketball games. Name this kingdom.

A.Bhutan

WAY OF THE WHIT CLOUDS

5 Questions With John Griber

When man mixes with mountains interesting things happen and thoughts about nature, religion, and the human mind, body and spirit abound. George Mallory’s irritated snap “because it’s there” is the most often quoted and perhaps most vacuous reason for why the best and bravest climb mountain peaks. Climbers certainly recognize a wide range of motives. For Jackson Hole native John Griber, climbing has been much more than a sport, but a lifeblood, a fine balance that has enabled him to pursue his dreams. The internationally recognized climber and snowboarder has traveled around the world in search of adventure. For 13 years he has been an ambassador for the North Face. His expeditions have taken him multiple times to the Himalayas, South America, Greenland, Africa, India and Pakistan, and topped out on Everest twice. His climbing exploits have segued into a promising documentary film career working for filmmaking Mike Brown and participating behind the camera for two upcoming Eddie Bauer films including one on the life of Alex Lowe.

ON ANTARCTICA

The Mountains look very similar to those in Nepal. In each case, it’s sometimes hard to tell the scale. However, all the animal life remains me a bit of Yellowstone. The wildlife doesn’t mind mixing with you at all. Overall, like most adventures, it’s the journey that is integral to this trip. I’ll remember the people and bits and pieces of travelling to this incredible continent.

ON THE WOOING OF EXTREMISM

If people are doing things cutting edge, to push their limits to balance their own life, I believe it to be a beautiful part of the human spirit and I heartily applaud. But to attempt these types of things because of other people’s expectations, strictly to get others wound up by doing crazy things, I think you’ve pretty much sucked the juice, the core element out of what’s in your heart and head. There’s the adage that the best judge of a person’s character is what they do when no one’s watching.

ON THE FEAR FACTOR

Fear is probably the alpinist’s greatest ally because it causes you to make important decisions. I call my fear factor “confident uncertainty.” I know it’s a contradiction of terms, but for me it is the perfect balance. One needs to be confident in any undertaking, but the fear of committing to something that might go south, even become a death situation, is what draws you. I like the situation uncertain enough to challenge and push me. I do not go climbing with the idea of a determined outcome. It¹s more to breathe deep and get moving.

ON HIS FAVORITE MUSIC

I listen to whatever fits my current mood. I enjoy Norah Jones and Ben Harper. Sometimes get a lyric and can¹t shake it like Cat Stevens “Miles From Nowhere,” or Ben Harper,” Don¹t need eyes to see.”

ON CLIMBING EVEREST

It’s incredibly hard work. It takes two months to climb it 70 days from home. One really has to lay it on the line, yet it’s the Sherpas who make it possible. Climbing Everest can be very emotional. It’s easy to be touched by its features. My first ascent was most memorable. It was crystal clear and blue. I called my 6-year-old son from the top at around 7 in the morning. Life made a lot of sense for attempting such a radical thing.

FACTS ABOUT EVEREST

Since 1953, more than 1,200 people have reached the summit of Everest. Here are a few other interesting facts about Earth’s sacred rooftop, known by Tibetans as “Goddess Mother” or “Chomolungma” and Nepalese as “Goddess of the Sky” or “Sagarmatha.”

- 10,000 people have attempted a summit climb in the last 50 years.

- 175 people have died on the mountain.

- 120 corpses still remain on Everest

- 1,700 summits have been made. James Whittaker was the first American on top in May of 1963.

- Of the 1,200 people to successfully climb Everest fewer than 100 have done so without supplemental oxygen.

- Reinhold Messner completed the first solo attempt in August of 1980.

- Yuichiro Miura of Japan, is the oldest person at age 70 to summit in May of 2003.

- Japan’s Junko Tabei, is the first woman to reach the summit.

- Temba Tseri Sherpa, 15, became the youngest in May of 2001.

- Everest is twice as tall as the Matterhorn

- Everest was named for Sir George Everest, Surveyor General of India during the 1860s.

- It is estimated there is 10 tons of garbage left on Everest.

Over 24 teams attempted the summit this past spring with more than 137 reaching the summit.

It hit me about the 14th bite of my spinach and cheese strudel. During the Ice Axe Antarctica 09 Expedition, many wondered why its international guides, made up of 18 of the planet’s most notable skiers, snowboarders and mountaineers, appeared so sluggish on the mountain. Why couldn’t we get to the really distant reaches up forbidden and icy peaks? How come we weren’t climbing that well? Why did we look, sound and play so tired? After all, these guys have been to the top of Everest, Denali, and the North Pole.

Now I know. Our guides eat too much.

Call them the Clipper Adventurer Eating Team or Probe Pole Cordon Bleu. Come and get them. Soup’s on and on and on, with the Ice Axe Expeditions Guide Team. I know because I traveled with them by ship during their trip to the Antarctic Peninsula.

Before we get to the appetizers, remember that Ice Axe Expeditions bill journalists for their meals. Don’t get the idea that objectivity is bought with steak and lobster. It’s just that everyone is served the same moveable feast: A4 ice screw specialists and hungry writers alike.

Take it from a 220-pounder like myself ­ our Ice Axe veteran mountain men are served enough on the road to feed a colony of leopard seals for a week.

Soon after our ship departed from Tierra Del Fuego, of course, everyone was served dinner – a cruise ship buffet stretching from here to Vinson Massif. Naturally, Dave Marchi, Dan Starr and Jason Mack saved room for midnight snacks: a dozen or so chocolate chip cookies, dulce de leche and pounds of Tiramisu. Then it¹s up for a breakfast that would have lasted all winter on Shackleton’s shipwrecked Fram. Each guide ate six fried eggs, a great mass of potatoes and a steak no bigger than a serac. By the time that was chewed and had been washed down to the belly with a couple quarts of hazelnut-chocolate cappuccino, griddle cakes arrived, ten or twelve surmounted by a hunk of butter as big as an iceberg and dripping with melting cornices of chocolate.

Ice Axe guides needed Kip Garr, CJ Warre and John Griber, all right, not for tuning skis, but to help let out everyone¹s tight pants before a forced march to the summit.

Our Ice Axe Guides don’t crampon off into the wild blue yonder as much as go for more Chinese. Call Director Doug Stoup anything but chicken, he might barbecue you. Liz Taylor should have been on the team. Team doctors found out Tucker Patton’s blood type was Ragu.

These guides don’t ascend well because their food has just digested. Then, by all means, it’s on to the ship¹s training table and a late lunch.

As you sit down, there are coolers full of soft drinks and beer. Begin with a Shepherd’s Pie, which requires a 300-pound bench press to hoist. Then served were spaghetti, manicotti, conchiglle al dente, vegetable curry and enough baguette to choke Paul Prudhomme.

Next was a platter of Southern Ocean fish, then a huge Sicilian roast beef quickly reduced to the bone; a mountain of Argentine potatoes, a swamp of Santa Cruz green beans, black-eyed peas and steamed polenta; Then, not just one pack of Buenos Aires chocolate confections, but two packs. And if that wasn’t enough to hold over our guys such as Ben Mitchell, John Metschnig, Hans Salzman and marine biologist Allan Marshall, crème brulee swimming in cream, and figs the size of Mount Francis.

And this only begins a mountain retreat for dinner: Minestrone that has so much bread broken into it that it was more solid than liquid; half a lamb Asado; potato halves filed with cheese sauce, cauliflower in cheese sauce, Alka-Seltzer in cheese sauce. I kept seeing Ice Axe guides in a funhouse mirror. Kevin Quinn, the lead guide, was too busy eating to be interviewed.

I couldn’t stomach another bite. The waiter asked how about some strawberry swirl cheesecake?” I said, “Sure!”

He brought not one, but three pieces! And I devoured them! I felt like all of us were in an Alpo commercial. This Ice Axe team has its cake and eats two.

Sailing back to Ushuaia, we crept into the Beagle Channel, probably because we each had gained ten pounds. Growing restless, our guides waged a food fight such that the captain announced we would heave to if it weren’t stopped. That’s when I spied one last snack pack that had rolled under a seat. Tal Fletcher and Glen Poulsen were fighting over it.

And we wonder why our Ice Axe guides didn’t have the lean, hungry look on route? Although in between meals they led expedition members safely to the most beautiful scenery within the most unimaginable trip of a lifetime, I’m telling you, we feed them too much. At this rate, the only time they’ll ever use their bivy sack is if it’s full of chili.

NOTE: This dispatch was inspired by the delicious offerings of Clipper Adventurer Head Chef Zaldy and staff. No guides died from overeating in the writing of this story.

“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in where Nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul alike.”

– John Muir

[Escura Inlet, Admiralty Bay, King George Island ­ 62. Degrees 09 South/58degrees 32.6 West]

I ascend Escura Inlet’s steep hills. It doesn’t take long before amagnificent view of King George Island blooms between two ridges. I marvel at the perfection in contrasts: burnt umber cliffs, outcroppings of lichen-colored rock, and a broad sweep that leads to the delft blue of Admiralty Bay. The brilliant water reflects the deep color of the sky, slicing into the white of surrounding snowfields. The Southern Ocean seems to wear a different shade of blue each time I see it ­ azure to the slate gray and emerald green that often presages a winter storm. In the early light of morning, Antarctica glitters with excitement, while late afternoon deepens the milk of magnesia hills into a calm expanse. With each day, each hour, Antarctica changes, and so do I.

But Admiralty Bay is far more than a beautiful place to experience restorative solitude or marvel at kaleidoscopic displays of color. Antarctica just isn¹t about the high reaches – it¹s a beacon for a type of tribalism seldom seen at any other extreme expedition.

Over 35 Squaw Valley and North Shore residents are aboard the Clipper Adventurer: From well-known professional guides Ben Mitchell, Tal Fletcher, Jason Mack, Tom Waclo, Glen Poulsen, Kevin and Jessica Quinn, CJ Warre and Ming Poon; SV ski coaches Dick Banfield, Scott Flint and Jeff Lampert; videographers Tom Day and Liz Rodgers and team photographer Keoki Flagg; and Warren Miller Production ski talent Kip Garr and John Morrison.

Then there’s Squaw Valley Institute board members Russell Poulsen and John Wilcox (proudly announcing himself as oldest member of this voyage); Snowboard high priest (on film assignment) Jeremy Jones; Squaw Valley residents Reb and Nancy Forte and Barbara and Fred Ilfeld and Tahoe Forest Hospital nurse Kathleen Cohen; legendary mono-board skier Lee Dube and famed Squaw Valley rippers Meaghan Wheeler, Jean-Marc Landau and Adrian Benson. And finally, of course, there are the untamed www.unofficialsquaw.com boys ­ Ralph Backstrom, Greg Martin, and Mattias Sullivan, Patrick Ribelli and Tim Konrad.

Sometimes it feels like a shipboard college campus reunion watching Banfield making gnarr turns on a 46 degree pitch, or Keoki and Tom Day with all their cameras and ever smiling Scott Flint making jokes and all the guides walking around with their pickets and ice screws as out of a National Geographic page.

And then of course there is leader Doug Stoup ­ larger than life ­ putting out fires, corralling egos, encouraging folks to pursue their dreams and cranking some righteous turns himself way up high on steep distant ridgelines. It was Stoup and his assistant Karen Stanley (another North Shoe resident) that put this thing together and in the process created a Squaw Valley alumni party. It makes you proud to be back in the saddle and a Squaw Valleyite and I¹m not just talking about the beer drinking and backslapping after dinner.

Admiralty Bay, aside from massive snowfields, is also home to the biggest collection of scientific stations in Antarctica, including the Polish scientific research station the Arctowski.

The low gravel shores in front of the station are home to lounging fur and elephant seals. Adele, gentoo and chinstrap penguins all frequent the beach because they nest in abundance in the colonies on the nearby surrounding hills.

The beach is great for discovering whale bones and other remains such as skulls, ribs and jawwbones.

The station is named in honor of Henryk Arctowski, the geologist on Adrein de Gerlache’s Begica expedition of 1897-99.

Here, we met Anna, a marine biologist from the Polish Academy of Sciences. In her seventh year of research and work at the Polish Station our interview went kind of like this:

TT: Do you ever miss the food from your homeland?

ANNA: I love “Dogas,” a special Polish recipe that includes sauerkraut, sausage and mushrooms. When we buy supplies during the summer season from the cruise ships I can usually find all the ingredients to make some.

TT: Do penguins or any of the other species ever become possessive or familiar with you after time the way a dog or cat would?

ANNA: Penguins have no idea about your personality. They are very distant in that regard. Life in a penguin colony is noisy and dirty, with adults calling and displaying to one another, chicks squeaking as they beg for food and the birds commuting from sea to nest with meals while the other guards the nest. They really have no time for you. Some of the birds will gather around you, like sheathbills, but mainly because they are not afraid of you.

TT: Do you ever get lonely or beat down by the Antarctic weather?

ANNA: There are huge blizzards and winds that gather over 260 kilometers, but you never feel in danger. With the Internet you can contact friends and family. It’s no longer as in long past where the only communication was by radio.

TT: Have you ever watched any of those horror movies that take place at a station in Antarctica like “The Thing” where self-absorbed personality challenged scientists wake up some creature in a crevasse from 50,000 years of sleep who becomes really teed off and starts eating everybody?

ANNA: I have never seen such a thing. After all I’m pretty busy at our station studying Starfish and such, but it sounds good. We should rent that film.

The ICE AXE S.A.T:

Q. Name two countries where you can throw a snowballa cross the equator.

A. Kenya, where the equator passes over the shoulder of 17,057-foot Mount Kenya, and Ecuador, where it bisects 18,996-foot Cayambe.

THE ICE AXE PROFILE
5 Questions with John Wilcox

John Wilcox first took to the slopes at the ripe age of 30. His first day at Alpine Meadows he broke his ankle. “Fortunately, I’d had a few runs, enoughto get me hooked before the injury,” John admits.

Forty-three years later, the Squaw Valley, California resident is Ice Axe Expeditions oldest team member in Antarctica. A former Stanford grad and successful businessman from Palo Alto, John is far from retired. He presides as President of the Board of the Squaw Valley Institute, serves as Director of the Squaw Valley Service District and is a board member for the Squaw Valley Museum Foundation. When not skiing the peaks of the white continent John enjoys his time with his two loves ­ wife Barbara and faithful companion Australian Shepherd Lexi.

On Aging and Skiing
As you age you sometimes worry about not being able to do some of the things you’ve enjoyed doing in the past. Luckily, at my age, I haven’t slowed down all that much, but I know one day down the road I may not be attempting what I can accomplish at this stage. When that happens I’ll have to start going out into the backcountry with a different group of friends who are all much younger than me at present.

On His Favorite Ski Line
It has to be the north side of Lassen Peak in what is called the “Devastated Area.” It’s a long steep pitch, around a 2,000-foot descent. A couple of years ago in May I had a particularly wonderful bluebird day. The snow wasn’t quite corn, but more like little crystals that made a crunching sound under foot. It was beautiful snow.

On His Favorite Beatles Music
I love the Beatles, but I listen mostly jazz. Give me the Modern Jazz Quartet, Oscar Peterson, Ella and Duke anytime.

On Living In Squaw Valley
What makes Squaw Valley such a great place to live isn’t just about its mountains and skiing. The community is made up of a variety of people. Back in the city we hung out basically with people of similar age, wealth and education. Squaw Valley is a hodge podge of different backgrounds and age,wealth and experience where everyone nevertheless is still equal. And what characters!

On Going to Antarctica
What grabbed my attention more than anything was all the great people who came along. It was an incredible see and ski adventure, but it was the camaraderie and team members that made it exceptional.